Marion County Oregon - Secure Windows and Doors

Safety Tips

Secure Windows and Doors

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How to Secure Windows and Doors

Exterior Doors

All exterior doors should either be solid wood or metal. Do not use a "hollow core" wooden door if the door goes to the outside. The door should fit snugly. If it does not, metal weather stripping — properly installed, will snug up your door.
The metal plate on the door frame that the latch rests in is called the "strike." The strike should be securely installed into the framing timbers with 2½" or 3" screws. If long screws cannot be used, extra long (8" - 12") strike plates should be used.

Always know who is at the door before you open it. A wide-angle door viewer will allow you to see who is outside without opening the door.

Hinges

Hinge pins should be on the inside of the door. If your door has the hinge pins on the outside of the door you can install nonremoveable hinge pins, or you can drill a new hole below each top hinge leaf and above each bottom hinge leaf, making sure the holes are directly opposite each other. Then install a solid metal pin, screw or concrete nail into the hole in the door frame. The pin should protrude about ½ inch. When the door is closed the pin will fit into the hole in the door; when locked the hinge pins can be removed but the door itself cannot be lifted out.

Locks

All exterior doors should be protected with a pin-tumbler lock that has at least five pins in its mechanism. Each should also have a deadbolt lock for additional security.

All deadbolts should have a bolt which extends at least 1" when in the locked position, a cylinder guard ring of case-hardened steel which rotates freely, a hardened steel insert or bolt-bearing (to prevent sawing the bolt off), and mounting bolts of at least 1/4" in diameter and as long as possible given the door and frame dimensions.

Certain deadbolts require a key for both sides of the door — these are called "double cylinder" deadbolts. These locks are especially effective for doors with glass within 40" of the lock. An intruder cannot break the glass and unlock the door by reaching through. Some authorities recommend leaving the key in the lock when you're at home for ready exit in an emergency. It is also recommended that one door, preferably the primary exit, not have a double key lock on it.

Some jurisdictions do not allow these locks — check with your local law enforcement or building code authorities before installing a double key lock.

Another solution for doors with glass in or near them is to install shatterproof glass or polycarbonate. This is more expensive than regular glass and should be installed by professionals, but it works!

A "police lock" works well on rear and basement doors and in apartments. It is a metal bar bracketed against the inside of the door at an angle, which slides into a small hole in the floor. It prevents an intruder from jimmying or kicking in the door.

Padlocks are typically used for garages, sheds, storage areas and workshops. Look for a sturdy padlock that doesn't release the key until the padlock is locked. It should have a rugged laminated case with a 3/8 inch shackle so it can resist being smashed. A double locking design can prevent the shackle from being pried away from its case. Remember that a padlock is only as good as its hasp. The hasp should be secured with bolts and mounted on a metal plate. Be sure bolts are concealed when the padlock is locked.

Sliding Glass Doors and Windows

Several types of locks are made especially for sliding doors and windows. In addition you can:

Adjust the rollers so that the door cannot be pushed up enough to lift it off the track.

Insert screws along the upper track of the door. Some sliding glass doors are hollow behind the center of the track — these doors should have the screws installed slightly to the side so they are anchored in the frame. Leave enough space for the door to slide but not enough space for the door to be lifted out.

Put a piece of wood or a metal bar in the track of the closed door. This prevents the door opening even if the lock is jimmied or removed.

Purchase a pin lock or drill a hole and insert a nail through the inside frame and part way through the metal door frame. You can remove the pin or nail but a burglar can't.

Louvered Windows

These windows are difficult to secure because the individual panes can be easily removed. Application of a two-part epoxy resin to each pane of glass will prevent easy removal.
Grilles or grates are recommended for louvered windows or any especially vulnerable window (like those concealed from casual observation or at street level). Make sure grilles are equipped with a quick release feature for emergency exits.

Double Hung Windows

Most standard windows have a small thumb-turn lock in the center. Don't rely on these. They can be pried open or easily reached through a broken pane.
You can buy special locks for windows. Keep the keys away from the windows, but make sure everyone in the house knows where to find them in case of emergency.

An easy, inexpensive way to secure your windows is to use the 'pin' trick. Drill an angled hole through the top frame of the lower window partially into the frame of the upper window. Then insert a nail or an eyebolt. The window can't be opened until you remove the nail. Make a second set of holes with the windows partly opened so you can have ventilation without inviting intruders. Eyebolts can provide strong resistance against jimmying.

Always use your locks. Even a 5-minute trip to the store is long enough for a burglar to enter your home.

Crime prevention tips from:
The National Crime Prevention Council
1700 K Street, NW, 2nd Floor
Washington, DC 20006
202-466-6272

McGruff's National Citizens' Crime Prevention Campaign is funded substantially by the Bureau of Justice Assistance, Office of Justice Programs, U.S. Department of Justice.

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